After spending the last two July holidays trekking across the Simpson Desert we decided this year to take things easy and head up to the Flinders Ranges for a few days. This time we left the "Surf" at home and took Paul's Hilux Dual cab. Things became a bit more complicated when Paul's foot and a chainsaw came together a few weeks before we left....

Day 1 è (Sunday July 18)

We got an early start and were on the road by 6:30 am. Traffic was light at that time of the morning and we soon found our way on to Pt Wakefield Road. We stopped for fuel at Pt Augusta and then turned off towards Quorn. Lunch was scheduled for the tavern at Leigh Creek but being a Sunday things were pretty slow there, so we opted for the cafe instead. After both devouring a 1/2 chicken hot pack we had a parting beer and then hit the road to Lyndhurst. From there it was on to the Strzelecki Track, which was in pretty good condition. After recent rains the area just east of Lyndhurst was quite green, especially near the roadside.

After about 75 kilometres we turned off the Strzelecki and headed east towards Mt Freeling Station, on the Moolawatana Rd. When we arrived we spent some time catching up with the manager Jon Fraser and his delightful family. The property is a working sheep station but they have diversified and for a modest fee provide accommodation for tourists in the shearer's quarters (which have been recently upgraded). Bush camping is also allowed with prior arrangement.

The property is over 1000km² and has numerous interesting highlights including; buildings that date back to 1866 when a Police Station was present on the property, the historical Yudnamutana mine area, Yellow Footed Rock Wallaby colonies and of course picturesque gorges and huge creek beds that the Flinders Ranges are famous for.

Our plan was to camp the first night out in the Mt Fitton area, so as the afternoon wore on we headed back on to the Moolowatana Rd and travelled east once more. Along the way the road skirts the edge of the working Mt Fitton Talc Mine before the ruin of Mt Fitton Homestead is reached 42 kilometres past Mt Freeling Homestead. Here we branched off into the creek bed and found a campsite a few kilometres in from the road.

By this stage it was getting on towards dark and there was a very cold wind howling through the area. It was so strong that it made lighting a fire rather difficult! Dinner was soon underway but with two jumpers, a jacket and a balaclava on - I was still freezing!. Although the temperature was a reasonable 8^oC, the wind chill made even sitting close to the fire ineffective, so it was soon into the swags for an early night.

Day 2 è The wind was still blowing strongly early on, so it was nice to be able to lie in the swags and enjoy the warmth for a while. With a fairly casual schedule planned for this trip we had plenty of time on our hands. Initially, we had planned to also bring up our Yamaha XT motorbikes which we have been doing on the property for many years. Unfortunately, we had to shelve those plans when Paul severed a tendon in his foot during an accident on his farm while cutting wood with a chainsaw. With his foot still in a cast it meant the bikes were no longer an option and I had to drive the whole way! Of course what it did do was give us a fantastic conversation starter whenever we stopped and met people. With the cast wrapped up in a piece of canvas to protect it, he hobbled around like the Elephant Man!

After a leisurely breakfast we packed up our swags and travelled back towards Mt Fitton.  We then picked up one of the station tracks that head out past Mt Livingstone towards  Livingstone Spring. After checking this area for a while it was back to Mt Fitton and then on to another station track that heads south west right across the property. A few kilometres along, there is a side track that leads to Hamilton Creek, where we knew there were lots of good campsites. With very little rain over the last few seasons there was no water in the creek. However, at others times we have visited this area the large sweeping bends of the creek have held quite large pools of water.

We explored a few tracks in the general area of Hamilton Creek that we had been on before with the bikes. One climbs steeply to an old abandoned mine, while another begins over the creek and ascends sharply up a rutted slope towards the western corner of the property.

After wandering around for a bit we made our way back to the creek and set up the swags amongst some melaleuca trees to try and avoid the wind that was still blowing strongly. The fire was soon started and one of our famous roast legs of lamb was quickly underway in the camp oven.

Day 3 è Finally, after two days of strong winds, we awoke to a clear and calm morning. The overnight temperatures had been quite mild for this time of the year ( 5^o C) but it had seemed much colder with the wind blowing.

The plan today was to head off to Arkaroola via the Yudnamutana mines. After packing up we headed back to the main south west station track and made our way towards Valley Bore. The track is in pretty good condition and provides some good views out towards Mawson Plateau. After passing the old Mt Shanahan diggings we came to Greenhill Well where there is a fork in the track. We chose to take the longer route which passes Tindelpena Hut and Well before joining again near Daly Bore.

After stopping for lunch at Daly Bore it was off again to Yudnamutana. It's amazing to think that back in the late 1800's this area was a hive activity. Even more surprising is that the smelting plant (of which ruins are still present) was completed in 1910 but never went into production after a dramatic fall in the price of copper. There was even a proposal to put a train line in from Leigh Creek to Yudnamutana!

Once past the mine area a track heads off to a waterhole where we stopped for a break before heading back to the main track that leads to Arkaroola.

A few kilometres further on we passed through the Arkaroola/Mt Freeling boundary gate and made our way towards the Arkaroola Village. Once there we fuelled up and checked on the whereabouts of Doug Sprigg. We were keen to catch up and have a chat with Doug since it had been some time since we had seen him. Doug is the son of the legendary Reg Sprigg who built Arkaroola from the ground up in the 1960's.

With Doug still flying back from Adelaide we decided to have a shower and make a few phone calls before catching up with him after tea. Our plan was to head south through the Gammon Ranges to Angepena and then on to Warraweena Conservation Park. After some initial confusion re the status of the tracks (we mistakenly thought some of our proposed route was part of a Public Access Route) we found it necessary to get in touch with the landowners at Angepena, Mulga View and Narrina stations to get permission to cross their land. After much searching we got all the correct phone numbers and they were happy to grant us access.

After tea we eventually found Doug Sprigg and had had chat with him and others around the fire that had been lit after the weekly BBQ. With a few beers under our belt it was then off to our campsite in The Gammon Ranges and into the swags.

Day 4 è Without the wind the morning was crisp but fine. After spending the night camped in Bolla Bollana Creek we packed up and followed a track that took us to the main track between The Needles and Yadaninna. The passage through the creek beds was a little rough at times but once out in the open it was easier going. Soon we came to a track junction and we veered right to check out the ruin of Old Illinawortina. With open barren hills the country side was in stark contrast to the de-stocked area of Arkaroola. The ruins of the homestead sit right atop the riverbed and it must have been an impressive place when the creek was flowing and the seasons were good. Unfortunately, the good times were never common enough and like much of the rugged country in this area the land is only marginal for keeping stock.

As we picked our way around the homestead ruins we found the remains of at least 4 kangaroos that had used one of the rooms as a last resting place instead of the caves or natural overhands they normally seem to find.

Soon it was back to the track junction where we turned towards south towards the Yadaninna Homestead. This leg didn't take long and once at the homestead we found it to be vacant as well. From there the track turned into a road and we were soon on our way south. We passed close by Yankaninna Homestead and then on past Owieandana Outstation before finally arriving at Mt Serle Station. After skirting around the station buildings we took the left road fork and were soon out on the main Copley to Balcanoona road.

The turn off to Angepena Station is only a few hundred metres east of the Mt Serle road. Having spoken to the landowner the night before we thought he may not be in, and that turned out to be the case. So we picked up the track south and headed off towards Mudlapena Gap where we stopped for lunch. This was a nice spot with water flowing from the nearby spring.

The track continued on past Evan Outstation before passing the Angepena Goldfields. This area was a little confusing, with several tracks being present that were not marked on the 1:50000 topographic map for the area (Angepena). After a few false starts we eventually picked up the correct track that heads south east past some ruins at Angepena Treasure. A native well is then seen before the track passes a gate and ownership changes to Mulga View Station.

The track from this point follows numerous creek beds and becomes quite rough with lots of large boulders. The going was pretty slow through this area with a number of track detours around washed out sections.

The track then briefly passes into Narrina Station before a turnoff to the west is reached. A couple of rock cairns indicated the turnoff and we soon skirting around Mt Hack through Main Gap. Not far on and we arrived at the boundary gate to Warraweena Conservation Park. This fantastic place is leased by Wetlands and Wildlife, a non profit public company dedicated to conservation. They acquired the lease back in 1996 and the property was de-stocked. Later on, in 2003, the land surrounding the Sliding Rock Historical Site was also acquired and added to the Conservation Park.

The park is managed by Stoney and Gina Steiner. Stoney is a native of Austria who fell in love with Australia while holidaying here some years ago. He has qualifications in a number of areas including Conservation and Park Management and he is passionate about Warraweena.

Having made initial contact by phone Stoney was aware we were on our way and provided us with the combination to the boundary gate. The lock was soon open and we were through on our way towards the homestead.

On thing that is striking about Warraweena are the large numbers of native pine stands that occur on the property. The track was in pretty good condition, with a number of washouts having been fixed up by Stoney's constant work.

Soon we were at an intersection that led to the camping area at Black Range Spring. This was a fantastic spot alongside Sliding Rock Creek. There were grassy camp areas as well as fire rings and a long drop toilet. After checking the spot out for a bit it was back to the main track. Not long after, a second track junction is reached. The left track heads south down towards Old Warraweena Homestead but we continued on. All of the major track junctions that we passed on the property were well sign posted by Stoney's unique drums. After passing a few more tracks off to our left we finally arrived at the Homestead by late afternoon and met up with Stoney.

After a bit of a chat we decided to stay at 'Lambing Camp', the turnoff of to which we had passed a few kilometres back along the track. The rate was $10 per night which was very reasonable considering it gave us the freedom to check out some of the spectacular countryside on offer the next day.

Soon our swags were set up and we collected some firewood from along the creek. The campground also had a long drop toilet and fire rings and was in good condition. After another roast in the camp oven it was soon into the swags after a long but rewarding day.

Day 5 è We had organised with Stoney the previous day to do a 4WD loop trip that took in some of the highlights of the property. We left our gear at the camp and went back to the homestead early in the morning and went through the details with him. He kindly lent us a map that showed the intended route and we were soon off towards Cockatoo Well Hut. After passing through areas of rocky outcrops we came to a large native pine forest before arriving at Cockatoo Well Hut. It's possible to stay at this hut and it's an impressive spot, not far from the base of Mt Gill (at 914 mt it's one of the highest peaks in the area). There is a rugged track that winds its way to the peak of Mt Gill and Stoney has just opened it to experienced 4 Wheel Drivers. It involves a 35 kilometre loop from the homestead and there are some minimum vehicle requirements. For more information see here.

There was a couple staying at the hut so we only stopped briefly to say hello before backtracking to our main route. Soon we turned off towards Dunbar Hut, via Yellow Well. This section of track is not marked on the 1:50000 map (Cadnia) but Stoney had included it on his copy.

Yellow Well was soon reached and we stopped to check out an old goat trap that surrounds a reedy section below the well. The goats are attracted to the water in summer and are led over a fence before becoming trapped. The trap was not in use but eradication of feral pests, including goats, is still a high priority at Warraweena.

The track soon passes the old Blinman copper diggings with an old ruined hut still visible. From there it's a short distance on to a track intersection that gives you a choice of which way you would like to enter the valley below.

To the left 'Suicide Track' heads steeply down a spur to the hut. There is a sign that warns drivers as you approach the start of the descent and it's worth stopping and admiring the view at this point. Dunbar Hut can be seen directly below, with Warrioota Creek winding its way east towards its headwaters. This track requires low range four wheel drive and needs some care. To make thinks safer, and to protect the track, it is only to be travelled one way - down. If steep tracks are not your thing there is an alternative way into the valley that is not quite as daunting.

We chose the 'Suicide Track' option and the Hilux had no trouble in gently idling down the hill in low range. Once at the bottom we headed over and had a look at Dunbar Hut (which is also available to stay in) before heading east along the valley and into Warrioota Gorge. The track followed the creek bed and after a short while we came to a section where another creek entered on our right. As directed by Stoney, we left the car at this point and walked up along the creek in search of some rock pools and a waterfall.

With some water still around we walked the short distance along the creek and  passed a number of pools before reaching the waterfall.

Although only flowing slightly over the rocky edge it was a great spot to stop and enjoy the surrounding area.

After a few photos along the creek it was back to the car and on our way once more. We decided to continue on along Warrioota Creek and followed a faint track in the creek bed that got rougher the further in we went. After a couple of kilometres we stopped and had some lunch before deciding to turn and head back out.

Soon we were back at Dunbar Hut and onto the main track that leads back to Warraweena Homestead. After a few kilometres the property boundary fence is reached and the track swings northward. The final spot of interest on the loop is the lookout near the base of Mount Stuart (881mt). A short track branches off to the right and a great view can be obtained of the countryside to the east as well as the Sliding Rock Ruins to the north.

After getting back on to the main track it wasn't long before we were at Warraweena Homestead. All in all, the loop had been an excellent way to see some of the highlights of the property. For a detailed description of this route click here.

On our return we had a long chat to Stoney and then gave the showers a test before making our way back to our campsite and cooking our final dinner. With an early departure planned it wasn't long before we were into the swags.

Day 6 è With a long trip back we made an early start and were away before dawn. The return trip to Adelaide was uneventful, except for the rain. It started near Pt Pirie and continued all day!

Despite some windy weather the Flinders Ranges once again provided some excellent four wheel driving and great camping!

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